Moparts Tech Archive

Brake System

Bleeding Brakes & MC

ultrajosh
Moparts Member
Posts: 1762
From: Somerville, MA
Registered: Apr 2000
posted 05-21-2002 11:17 AM

I remember a while back someone described bleeding brakes by filling the reservoir, cracking all 4 bleed valves, and leaving the car overnight. Does this really work? Do I have the procedure right? The system is empty right now and I have to drop it off at the muffler shop tomorrow - probably won't have someone to help me bleed them the regular way.

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hp383
Moparts Member
Posts: 3173
From: Council Bluffs, Iowa, USA
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 05-21-2002 11:25 AM

You have the basic idea right, but if you open all four, and leave it overnight you will have an empty mastercylinder, and a lot of fluid on the ground.
fill your resivouir, leave the cap off.

Then starting with the wheel farthest away from the master, open the bleed valve till it begins to dribble out. when you get a constant dribble, no air, or bubbles. tighten the bleeder.

recheck the resivour, then move to the next closet wheel, and repeat for all four.

After you have all of them done, you can just crack all four at the same time and let them dribble a little more.

dont forget to spray everthing down with brake parts cleaner to keep it from corroding

usually the order is pass rear, drivers rear, pass front, drivers front.

this works really well, just did it with my truck this past weekend, now my face almost hits the windshield.

(I found out that the rear shoes were not adjusted properly, and were not contacting the drums, now I have to retrain myself on how to stop with the truck)

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ZIPPY
Moparts Member
Posts: 5689
From: Detroit suburbs MI USA
Registered: Jan 2000
posted 05-21-2002 11:26 AM

If you leave it overnight, it will probably drain the reservoir. then you would be back to square one...actually worse than square one, because the MC would have air in it too.
For gravity bleeding I usually do them in the same order as other types of bleeding (furthest from the MC first), and do one at a time. Open the bleeder, then walk off for 10 minutes or so. Come back and observe the drip, if it's steady then move on to the next one.

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Rich69RR
Moparts Member
Posts: 931
From: Middletown, NY
Registered: Dec 1999
posted 05-21-2002 12:18 PM

of course make sure you're using compatible fluid, the newer the better. I prefer Castrol LMA fluid... good stuff.
Also, when I bleed, I usually attach a clear plastic hose onto the bleeder once it gets going to drain into a old coffee can.

And make sure you use a good flare wrench and if the bleeder has not been done for a while it's not a bad idea to use a bit of penetrating lube on the bleeder prior to attacking it... there ain't much there to begin with.

I agree with the above guys on the procedure.. easy to do,, just keep an eye on it. Don't walk away thinking this will take hours.

And last but not least.. keep it away from your paint.

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hp383
Moparts Member
Posts: 3173
From: Council Bluffs, Iowa, USA
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 05-21-2002 12:52 PM

Even better than a good flare wrench, is a good 6 point socket or wrench (5/16 or 3/8 depending on your bleeder)
With the 6 point socket or wrench, the chance for rounding the bleeder is almost nil.

But a good shot of PB Blaster or similar is always a good idea.

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ultrajosh
Moparts Member
Posts: 1762
From: Somerville, MA
Registered: Apr 2000
posted 05-21-2002 02:12 PM

Cool! I will try the bleed-down method. The calipers are a year old and rear cylinders are brand new.

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Don1
Moparts Member
Posts: 4812
From: Valley City, ND. USA
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 05-21-2002 04:12 PM

If the fronts are a year old and you didn't mess with the lines to the front brakes they shouldn't have goten any air in them. Just the rears if that is all you replaced. This would be the front portion of the master cylinder. It wouldn't hurt to check them but if you didn't crack any lines to the front they should be the same as they were before you did the rears.

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