Moparts Tech Archive
Drag Racing Tips
Race Day Tips
Drag Racing Tipstboomer
Moparts Member
Posts: 1243
From: Iowa USA
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 11-04-2002 06:42 PM
I did not know we had so many racers on the board! How about a tips section for drag racing in the archives? Whaddya think,Carl?? Ted
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carl
Moderator
Posts: 8565
From: Ohio
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-04-2002 06:52 PM
My first tip!! LOL
Race your side of the track!!!!
carl
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440Dave
Moparts Member
Posts: 920
From: Victoria,B.C., Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 11-04-2002 06:59 PM
If a faster car is charging up behind you at 1/2 track, flip your turn signal on and start to edge over towards the center line. Its most effective if your car is banged up a little.
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tboomer
Moparts Member
Posts: 1243
From: Iowa USA
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 11-04-2002 07:03 PM
The home made throttle stop would be good....I always try to stay on my side!! My turnsignals don't work!! I think it would be a great column
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carl
Moderator
Posts: 8565
From: Ohio
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-04-2002 07:25 PM
Next tip
'if' you get out of 'your' routine once you leave the water box.
"MAKE" yourself 'get' back in the routine as if nothing happened.
carl
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bud
Moparts Member
Posts: 515
From: vineland n.j. cumberland
Registered: Oct 2000
posted 11-04-2002 07:48 PM
Use PAM kitchen spray on your valve cover gaskets thay don't stick makes it easy to ajust them valves at the track
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superbee_mopar
Moparts Member
Posts: 474
From: Smithville,TN
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 11-04-2002 08:10 PM
another use for PAM
spray a liberal coating of it on your lower 1/4's
makes washing off all of that "burnout rubber" alot easier
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440 Scamp
Moparts Member
Posts: 815
From: Kirkwood,Illinois
Registered: Oct 2000
posted 11-04-2002 08:23 PM
A dime works well as a jet remover if you forget a screwdiver. A screwdriver or coin used as a shim will make a wrong sized wrench fit tight enough to work. You can find a dead cylinder by wetting a finger and quickly touching each header tube.
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kingjr
Moparts Member
Posts: 2326
From: CT
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 11-04-2002 08:27 PM
Try not to hurry, take your time.
A good friend and world record holder once told me "as far as I'm concerned, when I get out there, I am the show"
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Runner
Moparts Member
Posts: 3016
From: Lewiston, idaho
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-04-2002 08:39 PM
these may not be what others do, but ive had good luck using them.
1. always start your burnout last. (i ALWAYS do this no matter who i race)
2. i like to stage last, ill prestage first but then sit there until hell freezes over beforeill stage. only 1 car at my track that i will go in first on. and thats because he is more stubburn than me.
3. try and dupicate every run exactly the same. burnout, staging, stalling ect.
4. if your out on the guy or your coming on him hard, i always pump on and off the throttle to shag et, this usually kills enough et with out letting him come charging by at the last minute. (i learned that from a very good old chevy racer)
5. always know how fast your opponent is.
6. never what the other guys tree,ive found this to cuase me to cut a bad light, i try to focus on my light only not even paying attension to when the other guy leaves
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LOCOMOTION
Moparts Member
Posts: 1354
From: FL
Registered: Dec 1999
posted 11-05-2002 07:51 PM
1) Watch your slick pressures. Sitting in the sun or in the shade can change them from your "optimum" settings. A tire cover and little bicycle pump can come in handy in the staging lanes between rounds, during down-time, etc.
2) Launch your car as close to the same water temp. as possible. Colder will tend to lean-out a given carb setting while hotter will tend to richen it. (Particularly the accelleerator pump circuit.)
3) Isoprophyl rubbing alcohol literally melts shoe polish (dial-ins) off of windows. This is particularly beneficial for lexan windows to reduce scuffing & scratches. Find a good aerosol plastic polish to help protect lexan also.
4) If you don't mind drilling a couple of holes in the floor just behind your seat, one can bolt a small latchable tool box there to keep handy, useful items in: tire gauge, small flashlight, couple of basic tools, small tire pump, shoe polish, etc.
They won't be rolling around in the car and will be secured in case of a mishap.
Myron
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carl
Moderator
Posts: 8565
From: Ohio
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-05-2002 08:05 PM
Check your dail in 'BEFORE' you turn that secong bulb on!!!
After you turn the stage bulb on you've bought the dail in.
'If' you check the dail-in and it's not right 'DON"T' stage untill it's changed!!!!
Once you turn the stage bulb on you're telling the starter you're 'READY' to race.
carl
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gregsdart
Moparts Member
Posts: 1757
From: frostbite falls Mn USA
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 11-05-2002 08:17 PM
For a good light. FOCUS FOCUS FOCUS!!!
Let nothing, and i mean nothing enter your thoughts till you have left the starting line. The one exception is the starter with his face in yours. I have lost more rounds due to minor distractions than i care to talk about.
For a good light,PRACTICE. I went through my routine , in my fire suit, in my car, 100 times one saturday night at BIR, to the consternation of my wife. It took over an hour, maybe two. Mentally going through my routine from the burnout box to the 60 foot mark. Then next day i made it to the fifth round, to lose by .004 . It had paid off.
Make checklists, and use them, so you have no nagging feelings of anything undone.
And most importantly, remember that YOU can win, no matter who is in the next lane! My current round wins against supercomp dragsters that run the brackets is over 50% wins! But, i have problems with focusing against a slower car, too much time!
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Runner
Moparts Member
Posts: 3016
From: Lewiston, idaho
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-05-2002 09:03 PM
dont use shoe polish, buy geddex it is soooooo much nicer. i have 2 bottles with me most of the tie at the track. some tracks sell it or ytou can buy it from jegs, summit doesnt carry it.
before you head to the track check your car out, things like water leaks or a gas cap that was put on crooked isnt good. the starter didnt like it when i launched pooring fuel out the back
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Challenger
Moparts Member
Posts: 877
From: Missouri
Registered: Dec 1999
posted 11-05-2002 11:17 PM
If you think that you have blown a engine, trans, or see all kinds of smoke, please pull the car over and stop. It dont take as long to clean a oil down if its in one place(puddle) instead of all the way down the track.
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Bracket racer advise needed
clair
New Member
Posts: 33
From: Wheatfield IN
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-22-2002 10:17 AM
This past year I have been running time only on race day working on my consistancy and the suspension . This comming year I am ready to become a DUCK !!!!!!!!
Will I need to get a weather station or do you just keep good records and use you experience. Picking your dial as the day goes on as the weather changes.
What about the week to week changes. my 13.80 to14.20 street car is all over the map !!!!!!!!! From week to week
Let me try again
I am wondering how much of an ET change during the day will I see based only on the weather changes. (I will not be making any changes to the car) And how you compensate for it on your dial in. Are we talking up to .100 of a change if it gets real hot and humid or more like .010?
I understand their are much more important things for me to be worried about ( A good light, no tire spin etc,etc ) just wondering about the weather only and what you do to compensate for it if anything at all.
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Eric
Moparts Member
Posts: 1314
From: Tonawanda NY USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-22-2002 10:43 AM
Get a log book to start..Summit pays contigence on them also . If you are not going to spend the cash on a TAG system. Get a good temp/humidity guage and a barometer. Other than a air density guage thats all I use....Eric
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Quicktree
Moparts Member
Posts: 263
From: middleburg, fl clay
Registered: Jul 2002
posted 11-22-2002 11:01 AM
weather stations have there place right now i would say seat time and a consistant routine will help you more. don't make changes after your last time trial.run your race don't worry about the car in the other lane.be patient it takes time.
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duster73
Moparts Member
Posts: 772
From: Parkersburg, WV
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-22-2002 12:03 PM
I have only been racing for three years but I would only recomend investing in a weather station if you are going to run over multiple days like at the Chrysler Classic. I invested $500 in related equipment this year and I think I can do as good just because I know my car. I would also give the advice of not second guessing the car. If it slowed .05 on the last run, it will probably not pick it back up on the next run. Always dial of the last run with consideration of the weather. I personnaly would not buy one of those instruments that stores 100's of runs.
Thanks,
Scott
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dangerousdemon
Moparts Member
Posts: 322
From:
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 11-22-2002 12:47 PM
Anyone else notice that their car is always slower on the first run of the day, then after? My first run will always be .15 slower then my second and subsequent run. If it sits for two hours, again it will be slower by .15. At the track I go to, I asked a couple of other mopar racers, and they felt the same way. They said the bowties and blueovals ran the same times every time but mopars need that extra run.
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440Dave
Moparts Member
Posts: 929
From: Victoria,B.C., Canada
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 11-22-2002 01:08 PM
We have a unique situation at our local track which is just a few feet above sea level. Its very sheltered and is quite warm in the afternoon during time trials. Around 5:00 or 5:30, during drivers meeting etc, the temp. drops a few degrees and a slight evening breeze comes up. The regulars know this and also know that their cars will run .1 to .2 quicker in the cool clean evening air, putting a lot of visiting racers on the trailer due to breakouts. Keep some notes and race at every opportunity, consistent drivers bring home way more trophies than fast drivers.
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MRMOPAR
Moparts Member
Posts: 1555
From: Tucson, AZ
Registered: Jan 2000
posted 11-22-2002 01:25 PM
If your car is "all over the map", a weather station is not going to help you. They may be of value once you run consistant passes. When you say all over map...what's up. Reaction time, 60', ets. You need to start with the reaction times and work up from there.
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slow70charger
Moparts Member
Posts: 107
From: Spokane, WA
Registered: Feb 2002
posted 11-22-2002 01:27 PM
dangerousdemon, I've heard that the first run is always a little slower due to the oil not being completely warmed up. ??? Who knows.
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dangerousdemon
Moparts Member
Posts: 322
From:
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 11-22-2002 01:47 PM
Its possible. I warm the engine up to 160, drive around the pit area for a few minutes, and then go to staging. I make a run, within an hour I am called back to staging, and make another run. The second run will always be .15 faster. The next runs will be with in .05 of these runs. We have time trials in the morning, then everything gets shut down over lunch. About 1:30, they start eliminations, I usually dial for a fresh run, then subtract .15 for the next, assuming the weather is the same. It works for me, I'm just curious why.
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Quicktree
Moparts Member
Posts: 263
From: middleburg, fl clay
Registered: Jul 2002
posted 11-22-2002 01:53 PM
could be track conditions i know alot of tracks like that but don't think it has anything to do with what brand name the car is sounds like chevy guys pulling you leg
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crankshaftkid
Moparts Member
Posts: 4768
From: Stinkerdener (Pasadena) TX
Registered: Feb 2000
posted 11-22-2002 01:59 PM
Sounds like your tuneup is off or you are having traction problems or other? Tell us more about your combination. Sometimes tuning for maximun performance can make the car inconsistant too and detuning will help that. It's worked for me before...
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Dduster
Moparts Member
Posts: 713
From: Livermore, CA
Registered: Dec 2000
posted 11-22-2002 04:15 PM
The reason your car run differently on the second pass is that you have put heat into the motor. Warm to hot motors make more power. Most people just drive around in the pits to warm up their cars and themselves mentally and sometimes just jump direct to staging. I don't have any experience for street cars but your second shot is usually faster if everything is left alone. You get the same situation when you make the second pull on the dyno. You have to be realistic about the condition of the track and other things like if you run behind street cars with lot's of water everywhere, etc.... The only way to know how your car will be effected with temp, humidity and barometric pressure is to keep a log book and see how things go from previous records. Keep good records, it will reward you later on.
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BBMopar
Moparts Member
Posts: 148
From: Richland Hills TX
Registered: Oct 2001
posted 11-22-2002 06:49 PM
I feel your pain brother but there are so many factors to consider when the car won't dial. I know you only asked the question about weather effects but it's much more complicated than that...for example carb jetting, tire pressure as it relates to track temp, shift point repeatability, engine temp, track prep, etc, etc, etc...I don't mean to be a fuddy duddy but the only real way to achieve consistency is testing and more testing and like somebody said earlier get a log book and a weather station and write down everyting you do or change and it's effects. It's a lot of work getting a car consistent so all you gotta do is keep flogging...as far as I know ther are no shortcuts....
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Runner
Moparts Member
Posts: 3053
From: Lewiston, idaho
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-22-2002 07:17 PM
i do my dials and will usually dial a tad slower than most would. if i take car of the tree then i cn take care of the bigend also.
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73roadbird
New Member
Posts: 5
From: orrstown pa.usa
Registered: Nov 2002
posted 11-22-2002 07:32 PM
As a new member and I have been bracket racing for about 7 years. I agree with Quicktime and MrMopar, more seat time.Once you get any bugs out of your car and get some time behind the wheel it will all come together, I know was there once when I first started. I do the same thing everytime from the time I pull in the water and then move to do the burnout then stage the car, repition,once you get a routine that works for you stay with it.
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clair
New Member
Posts: 33
From: Wheatfield IN
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-22-2002 08:45 PM
Welcome aboard 73 RoadBird
QuickTree and MrMopar,BBMOPAR,All of ya I here ya
Ya, I have a lot to lean that’s why I think I am a duck at this point!!!!!!!!!
What I am herring is get more seat time, record everything, and then start to try and figure it
It sound like the weather is the least of my worries and I agree. I was just wondering how much of an affect it has !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Eric
Moparts Member
Posts: 1314
From: Tonawanda NY USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-22-2002 09:36 PM
First off Clair..no one is a "Duck"..I learned that the hard way. I have only raced for 4 years and have had good success at a tough track every year except this year. That has got me a reputation of sort of a "Heavy Hitter". Don't ever let that get to your head...lol...treat every race as if you could ,and will win it. Never let the person in the other lane determine how you will run the race. Make your desisions to dump or run it out during the race.Now that I've said that...
TT is the only way you can get your car to run the #'s consistantly. I spent a lot of time my first 3 years at the track on TT nights dialing it. If you ask 1/2 the guys at my track to dial my car they probably could..it ran 7.27 for 3 years almost every pass.
Now I have made some changes and should spend some more time at TT.
I know plenty of succesful racers who do not even use a log book,but truthfully it is a valuable tool. With it you can find out what effects your cars combonation more :IE temp ,humidity,baro,track temp.... We race mainly at night so my car will usually pick up as the night progresses. Day racing can be a little more tricky. The sun on the track on one pass can take ET off compared to the pass before when that big cloud was overhead.....
Eric
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73roadbird
New Member
Posts: 5
From: orrstown pa.usa
Registered: Nov 2002
posted 11-22-2002 09:52 PM
Clair, When I started racing I ran in a trophy class for the first year as a learning experience for me and how to get into that routine, then when I got comfortable with the car and got consistant I moved up to the next class which of course has more experienced drivers which at first I lost first or second rounds alot but if you keep a positve it will come together and most important is to have fun. I have met alot of good friends through racing and continue to do so, and I have what I would call a low budget car, nothing fancy just a good consistant car,and when the car and driver are working together you can be deadly at the track. I hope this helps with your effort and good luck!!!
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gregsdart
Moparts Member
Posts: 1795
From: frostbite falls Mn USA
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 11-22-2002 10:10 PM
If you are going to move into the brackets, do yourself a favor, and start with the most important thing of all. A car that will deadhook the rear tires EVERYTIME! No games here. Just do it. Then you will be able to work on your cars reaction time, and your personal reaction time. It is near impossible to leave early or late on a certain bulb on the tree, so the next step is to get a bunch of passes where the car has 60 foot times all within .01 or better. From there you will see a patern form. If you nail it on the last yellow every time, you will see how much you have to change the rollout and how hard the car launchs to get competitive. If your car leaves too slow to give you an average .520 to .530 light, then taller front tires, less air in them, stagger the front tires by moving one forward so you get more rollout. Adding more torque to your combo will also help, or stalling the converter a little higher. Once you get the rpm figured out, find a way to make that come on the same every time. And be sure you stage the car square, and just barely light the second bulb, the same way, every time. Get a log book and keep track of waether on what ever the budget will allow for starters,and then watch the 330 numbers and 660 numbers to get an idea of consistancy. The 1/4 mile numbers are more affected by wind, and with a car in the 14s that will be off the mark more than the other numbers. Of cource, you will have to dial by the 1/4 mile number, but i hope you get the idea of finding the consistancy by looking at ALL the numbers. One other thing. Make sure you can duplicate your cars running condition within ten minutes. Engine temp has to be the same, or you will be all over the map. Good luck! Greg
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gregsdart
Moparts Member
Posts: 1795
From: frostbite falls Mn USA
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 11-22-2002 10:15 PM
Oh, and once you get some consitancy, watch out for the topend games. Never make your move till the very last, and never lift on a very fast car! (2 to 3 seconds faster or more.)
GREG
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clair
New Member
Posts: 33
From: Wheatfield IN
Registered: Oct 2002
posted 11-22-2002 11:08 PM
Eric Thanks for the encouragement
The last time out this is what the car did without any changes to it. . I got there late and cooled the car down. The day was about shot but I got 3 runs in about 45 minuets apart. I cooled the car down in between and try and bring the temp back to 160 to run. Would you try brackets with this? The car almost always slows down as the day goes on that’s why I was asking about the weather. Could the weather be causing this or am I just to inconsistent yet? I don’t think it’s the weather. look at my 60 ft on the run 3. As good as the 1 run then the et went to shit. Fuel PSI was good, I have a gauge in the car.Well I think its good it drops to 4 psi but never goes below that
run 1 run 2 run 3
60ft 1.95 1.976 1.952
330 ft 5.747 5.811 5.818
1/8 8.908 8.985 9.014
1000 ft 11.65 11.731 11.779
,1/4 13.982 14.072 14.13
73 roadbird Trophy class is what I plan to run 13.50 and slower street tire class
Gregsdart I was hopping you would chime in. I can tell you have been at it for a while
That new motor you are putting together sounds wicked !!!!!!!!!! I saw
that thread on the cam and thought “that thing has more lift on the cam then I have at the valve” Good God, there are some heavy hitters on this board !!!!!!!!!!!
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Eric
Moparts Member
Posts: 1314
From: Tonawanda NY USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 11-23-2002 02:47 AM
Your 60's look good for a street tire car as far as consitancy go's. During the day that you posted, was the temp going up? .What do your plugs look like. Sounds like it maybe a little fat. When the temp is up, there is not enough air to use the fuel. Also 4psi is a bit low for pressure,I run mine at 7.5....Eric
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gregsdart
Moparts Member
Posts: 1795
From: frostbite falls Mn USA
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 11-23-2002 04:52 AM
Clair, hope to here that we have helped you become a "hitter" as they say! On the three runs, if you look at runs two and three, you can see the spread is not bad ,and almost equal, due to the 60ft on run two, till you get to the 1/8 mile . Then the car slowed. Why? could have been a gust of wind,as one example of what can happen.
Can you get a friend to video the rear of the car? Get both rear tires in the shot, to see what it does at the line. If you have ,for instance, a 1/4 turn of spin on the right rear, then it leaves, you can crank the left front torsion bar up one turn and see what happens. That would put more weight on the left front and right rear, hopefully stopping that spin. But be sure and use a log book so you can always go back to where you were, and as a referance for the future.
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