Moparts Tech ArchiveDrive Shaft & U - JointsDriveshafts Do I need anything special? MikeCMoparts Member Posts: 135 From: East Brunswick, NJ, USA Registered: Apr 2001 posted 04-04-2002 10:34 PM Bent(creased)my stock driveshaft(70'cuda'automatic trans)so I need a new one.I'm not concerned with running stock parts but is there any reason not to get a used one for this application? Suggestions? hemifever Some spicer u-joints with appropriate yokes would be nice. The ones larger than the 7290 bigblock joints. The Spicer 1350's. I'm running a 3" steel shaft (heavy as hell unfortunately) with the 1350's. Got mine from Hensley Racing. Expensive from them I think, the shaft with front yoke, a rear yoke, and 2 u-joints ran me about $450. I shouldn't ever have a problem dropping a shaft again.... I run a 3" driveshaft. Made with DOM tubing and I use 1350(bigger than 7290)series NON GREASEABLE u- joints. The DOM is stronger tubing than standard 3" steel. The 1350 is a larger,stronger u joint. The reason they are not greaseable,I broke the greaseable ones. just find a good local driveshaft shop. Any shop can build you a sufficient driveshaft. I run the same thing on the racecar and it makes over 1300hp on the bottle Good luck! Hemi67GTX Mike, Dennys nitrous ready shaft is what I have in my car. That is what they reccomended for my horsepower level, even tho my car does not have nitrous. It is a stout unit that has the 1350 ujoints. I think it was 300 something dollars on sale. The stock driveshaft with the inertia ring (much thinner tubing) is on the shelf for future use. DusterDave Precison Shaft Technology built my d-shaft. It's a 3" DOM steel tube with a new 1350 series trans yoke, Brute Force non-greaseable u-joints. Rear u-joint is 1330 series. I paid $287 out the door. Eric Try Inland Empire http://www.iedls.com/ .I have delt with Dennys (about 5 miles from my house) and have not had good results...Eric all info provided by members listed above.
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