Moparts Tech Archive

Drive Shaft & U - Joints

U-joint & Girdle Questions

A couple weeks back I twisted my trans tailshaft and I finally got around to fixing it. I had a feeling the root of the cause might be in the driveshaft and sure enough I did find a connection-I think. The girdle caps at all four corners were ground down and dented. It appears as if when the car squatted, the inside of the shaft would make contact with the girdle cap. Has anyone ever had this problem? Looks like the only fix will be the ground down the cap for clearance, or go back to the old straps. Maybe pinion angle? Any suggestions?
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-05-2002 02:53 PM

Tony, I had the same problem. I had way too much rear axle wind-up, pinion angle got so wacked out that the caps/bolt heads were hitting the yoke on the end of the shaft as the yoke/joint/shaft rotated.
Finally got it all straightened out after several trips to the track and making a set of "CalTrac" style bars(which work great).

My last trip to the track was the only trip I have made that I didn't have to fix/replace the rear Ujoint, straps and bolts because of too much windup to get home.
That trip was also the first time I tried my bars, they work.

When I get home, I will post a pic of my setup and a pic of the chew marks on my driveshaft yoke.
Here is a down track (launch is worse) pic of my truck showing how much rear susp windup and lift I had, that was with a snubber. Ate Ujoints like candy.
Troy
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-05-2002 03:14 PM
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Tony, after rereading your post and the other replies it dawned on me what you were really talking about. I thought you had too much windup like mine and the bolts were hitting.
I got a set of those caps from Mancini, I couldn't use them cause there wasn't room, even with a stock shaft/yoke.
I barely have room to get the strap and bolt in now, it's a tight fit with an aluminum shaft and 1350 pinion yoke.

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TonyS451
Moparts Member
Posts: 166
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 06-05-2002 03:53 PM

Thanks for the input. I am using SS springs and pinion snubber in 71 Demon. Jerico, are you referring to the u-joint girdle or pinion snubber wher you say get rid of it? No doubt Cal Tracs work, but I have also seen a few 9 second cars on SS springs with 60 FTs in the low 1.4's. Right now I am in the 10.40's at 132 with 1.56 60ft and want to stick with this old school tech for now. FYI - I have 7290 u-joint and chrome moly shaft. I am using lowering blocks as well, maybe this is contributing to the problem? Any other thoughts?
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onebadstepside
Moparts Member
Posts: 116
From: orange,texas,usa
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 06-05-2002 09:59 PM

I went with the 1350 u-joints,the best money
ever spent.Its the last time I'll worry about weak u-joints.
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JERICOGTX
Moparts Member
Posts: 1944
From: Buffalo, MN
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 06-05-2002 10:08 PM

U joint girdles and pinion snubber throw them both in the garbage. but mainly go with the 1350 U joint. Much better piece. Inland Empire Driveline has some Ubolt eliminators that are made of billet steel. I run those on my car and have never had a U joint problem since.
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-05-2002 10:40 PM

Here is a pic of my home made Caltracs. Preload/adjustment are done by installing different diameter sleeves over the bolt that goes through the front pivot plate and lays on top of the leaf spring.
The cross member that is directly above the Ujoint is soon to be removed, it is way to close now that I have flipped the axle on top of the leafs.
Yes, the pinion seal was leaking lube by the gallon, you would too if your pinion nut was only finger tight . That is the way I found it when I went to install the new yoke.

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TonyS451
Moparts Member
Posts: 166
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 06-06-2002 11:18 AM

Troy - nice job with the traction bars. Again, I agree that caltracs and those alike will outperform my ss springs. I may go that route at a later date, but for now I want to make the most of my ss springs and more importantly, not break my tailshaft again. Jerico, Can you let me know why I must throw out my snubber and u-joint girdle? I had the same girdle on my 10.90 Charger with no trouble at all. Not that I disagree the 1350 is a stronger unit, I just don't think it is totally necessary. Thanks
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JERICOGTX
Moparts Member
Posts: 1944
From: Buffalo, MN
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 06-06-2002 12:52 PM

The problem with the Moroso U joint girdle is you have to drill out the stock yoke which IMO does not have enough material left to keep it a strong piece. Also you are pulling on a piece of aluminum. I broke mine on a set of street tire pulling 2nd gear. Out 1 yoke, a driveshaft, a input yoke, and a nice dent in my floor pan. My buddy had them on his auto car and had good luck for a long time. At the track he launched it, took out the drive shaft, yoke and the trans need to be fully gone through. Just not worth it, like I said before they WILL break.
As for the snubber, if you have the springs working right it should not be needed.
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LAR
Moparts Member
Posts: 142
From: Pgh, PA
Registered: Jan 2002
posted 06-06-2002 01:09 PM

Dumb Question?
What does the 1330 or 1320 or any other number mean?

I have 7290 u joints in my 8 3/4 rear. I also have a yoke made by empire driveline for it. It has the u-bolt that goes through the yoke and bolts (not strap type or aluminum girdle type).

Can I just put a 1330 one in? What is the difference between it and stock 7290?

Thanks,
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TonyS451
Moparts Member
Posts: 166
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 06-06-2002 01:13 PM

So are you saying that the snubber will hinder performance or just that it will work the same with or without one? Have you seen a better 60ft/et in removing the snubber versus having the snubber on? I can't say I agree with you that there is a reduction in strength by drilling through the yoke. Maybe the yoke alone compared to an undrilled one, but add the bolts through the aluminum block with a lock nut on the other side and I think that changes the integrity a bit. However, I still can't take away the fact that they are getting in the way of the driveshaft. Maybe I should go back to the old straps and see how that works for now. In the meantime, I will start saving for the 1350 conversion
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JERICOGTX
Moparts Member
Posts: 1944
From: Buffalo, MN
Registered: Apr 2001
posted 06-06-2002 01:29 PM

When I had SS springs my car ran faster without the snubber on. I ran 002-003 A body springs. They were clamped tight in the front and one clamp on the back. Each car/combo will be different though.
my moroso caps actually spread apart when it broke allowing the U joint cap to fly out. When that happened the driveshaft slammed the yoke and finished it off. The 1350 might be overkill, but will be there if you everdecide to go faster. If I would have just went the 1350 right away it would have saved me quite a bit of money and less headaches.
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-06-2002 02:28 PM

Lar, the 13.. joints you asked about are Spicer brand or "styles" of Ujoints, their specs are:
1310, End of Cap to End of Cap 3.219", cap dia 1.063"
1330, End of Cap to End of Cap 3.625", cap dia 1.063"
1350, End of Cap to End of Cap 3.625", cap dia 1.188"

The Mopar/Detroit joint specs are:
7260, Clip to Clip 2.125" or 3.125" EoC to EoC, Cap dia 1.078"
7290, Clip to clip 2.625" or 3.625 EoC to EoC, Cap dia 1.125"
Here is a pic of the 1330-1350 Conversion joint I am currently using for my Dshaft to rear end connection. There is a big difference between the size and strength between the caps of this joint.
Hope this helps.
Troy

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LAR
Moparts Member
Posts: 142
From: Pgh, PA
Registered: Jan 2002
posted 06-06-2002 03:36 PM

Thanks RedRam,
That's good information you have there.
So I guess you can't use the 13xx joints with a stock type Mopar, without changing the driveshaft or yokes.

Is that correct?

Or can you still use the 1350 joint in place of the 7290. The measurements are close, with the only difference being the cap diam.

What can I do the have the strongest u-joint without changing yokes or drive shaft ends?

Thanks
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-06-2002 04:13 PM

No, you can't swap one for the other.
Got to have the correct yoke for the joint.
Without changing yokes, your gonna have to use a 7290 joint. The solid (no grease fitting) are supposed to be stronger.
Spicer makes some high quality 7290's you can get them at NAPA. Gotta ask for a Spicer cause if you don't, you will get their brand, which has worked just fine for me in the past.
Here is a link to a good cross ref chart.
http://www.cvaxles.com/drivelineimages/rockford.htm

Troy
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JohnRR
Moderator
Posts: 7817
From: Ma.
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 06-06-2002 04:27 PM

redram , do you have a set of pictures of your cal trac type setup showing all the different parts and your mounting points ?
it looks like what i need on my 4x4 rear to limit axle wrap , or at least something i can adapt to mine , my big problem is the spacer blocks and axle under the springs .

is that a typo on the 1330 joint ? it looks like the 7290 uses a bigger cap ?
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TonyS451
Moparts Member
Posts: 166
From: Chicago, IL USA
Registered: Aug 2001
posted 06-06-2002 04:27 PM

Lar - where did you get the u-bolt you are using? I assume these go all the way through the yoke with retaining nuts on the other side, right? This may be just what I need.
Jerico - Thanks for the input. I agree, If starting from scratch plan for changes down the road. I always look to go faster, so eventually I will wish I went with the 1350.
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RedRam
Moparts Member
Posts: 1175
From: Hyden, Kentucky
Registered: Sep 2000
posted 06-06-2002 05:10 PM

JohnRR, no I don't have any of all the parts laid out in a display so-to-speak. As soon as it stops raining, I will go out and snap some pics of all the parts and where they mount for ya.
It was cheap and easy to make, just took a little time(at work ).
No, not a typo, the 7290 has a slightly bigger cap, just checked to be sure.
I have a couple of new 1330/7290 combo joints that I can't use now that I got the 1350 pinion yoke.
Rear end use to use 7290's and the tail end of my Dshaft uses 1330's. The front end of the shaft is all 1350, that 1330 yoke will be changed to a 1350 somtime down the road.
Troy
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LAR
Moparts Member
Posts: 142
From: Pgh, PA
Registered: Jan 2002
posted 06-06-2002 05:41 PM

TonyS451,
I got them from Harden's Muscle Car. They are at alot of mopar shows. Pretty big operation too. They have the yokes for coarse or fine spline 8 3/4 pinions. This thing is Beefy! Yes, the u-bolts go throught holes in the yoke and you bolt it tight. I think it was only like $65 or so. Pretty economical really.

Thanks for the info guys.
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info provided by members listed above

Dana 60 u-bolt yoke pkg?

R/T Jack
Moparts Member
Posts: 249
From: Puyallup, WA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999

I bought the u-bolt yoke package so I could get rid of the straps. Can I just unbolt the old one and put the new one on? The service manual talks about pinion depth and shims. Will changing just the yoke effect the pinion depth? Anybody have any experience with this? Thanks for your help.
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446acuda
Moparts Member
Posts: 1249
From: Charlotte, NC, U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2001
posted 04-14-2002 11:31 PM

Just bolt it on and torque it properly. Nothing else to it.

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kekoakeakane
Moparts Member
Posts: 990
From: Honolulu, HI USA
Registered: Jun 2001
posted 04-16-2002 01:33 PM

Make sure of the type of U-bolt conversion yoke you have to ensure you have the correct U-Joint. There is a U-bolt conversion package that uses the 7290 joints and also ones that use the 7290 to 1330 conversion joints. To check just put a ruler across the top of the yoke and measure the diameter of the cap space. If it's 1 1/16", then it's a 1330, but if it's 1 1/8" then it's a 7290. I found this one the hard way.
Kekoakeakane

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