Moparts Tech ArchiveFront SuspensionChallenger Suspension PartsFrom:Montclaire Reged: 02/18/03
74-77 C bodies used a beefy 11/16" tie rod setup. These will bolt right up to your Challenger and give some added strength but look completely stock. These are also Moog numbers. On police cars, taxis, and some hi-po models, sleeves were pressed onto the rear upper control arm bushings to add strength. The mopar pn is 1857840, and although they are NS1, you can still get them through some dealerships. If you can't find them, Back in Time Car Parts reproduces them. Like I said, I wanted Hemi spec suspension. The MP torsion bars are good pieces, and I ordered the .920" set. Don't forget the balloon seal and clip package, pn P5249609. The Hemi/440+6 rear springs, shackles, and poly shackle bushigs I got from ESPO. The MP rear springs suck, so stay away from them. I wanted to use stock style sway bars, and found a company that reproduces them (see ad at bottom). They make both front and rear bars in all the factory sizes, plus an additional, larger size. The front bars use the factory mounts and come with poly end links. The rear bars come with poly bushings in high quality frame brackets with poly end links. They do not make the rear mounting plates that bolt over the leaf spring pack, so you will have to source those. You can get reproduction retaining straps for the front bar through the paddock or year one. The LCA/strut rod relationship is crucial here. That's why I bought 30% over stock strut rods from Just Suspension. They make aluminum and adjustable ones too, but I would rather they bend than break, and I won't be adjusting them all the time, so I went with steel. Pick up a copy of mopar muscle magazine and check their ad on the inside. They have all kinds of HD suspension parts and tools. The current issue also has a great article on rebuilding lower control arms. I decided to use MP's strut rod bushings, pn P4529184.
For handling, you want +3.0 caster and -.5 camber but this is not always possible. Get as much + caster as possible keeping within the +.5 or -.5 from 0 camber.
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