Moparts Tech Archive
Wheels
wheel screws for slicks location diametral
i have one hole drilled so far and it seems like it will barely catch the bead of the tire. they wheels are new prostars. the head of the screw is less that 1/32" from the outer edge of the rim, and on the inside of the rim the screw is only approx 5/16" from where the edge of the bead will be. is this ok? it seems like that 5/16 from the inside of the bead is not a whole lot of tire to be threading in to. if anyone has digital pics of the inside of a weld wheel with screws in it would be a help.
Drill the holes at an angle toward the center of the bead. carl
Here are some pics of the location of the screw. is this ok?
Can I use your pics in a thread in the tech area???
And The only thing I would have done is to move the hole in toward the center of the rim.(1/16th -1/8th") And drilled the hole for the screw at just a little more of an angle toward the middle of the tire bead.
What you've got(done) is ok and will work fine.
The head of the screw is real close to the lip of the rim and if you ever change to a diff screw type (or manufacture) the heads of the screws (may?) hit the rim lip.
And if you drill the hole at more of an angle toward the center of the tire bead the screw will go over the steel in the tire bead that is along the inner edge of the bead.
I like to run a drill bit thru the hole in the rim into the rubber (about an 1/8th of an inch) of the bead after the tire is mounted. This will let the screw penitrate into the rubber on the bead and NOT just push the bead away from the rim.If you've already threaded the screw into the rim then use a smaller bit to start a hole into the bead thur the rim hole.
I hope some of this makes sense!!??
When you put the screws in those rims. get a grade 8 screw and use a 3/16's drill bit and drill the hole in from the bead so that the head doesn't hit the lip on the rim when you screw the screw into the rim. run the drill into the bead some so the screw will start into the rubber in the bead or it will(screw) will just push the bead away from the rim. If that made sense!!!
And once you get the screws run down tight back them out 1/4 turn or they will break off when the tire is loaded on launch.
When you drill the hole point it toward the center of the bead. (kinda at an angle) you'll see what i mean.
Put 8 screws to a side and spaced evenly. (32 total, 16 per wheel)
Ok I just remembered that Runner had started a thread on installing the rim screws and theres some good info in that thread as well.
I'll C&P all that info from that thread into this one.I'll also archive that thread in the best of Q&A section.
carl
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Author Topic: wheel screws for slicks
Runner
Moparts Member
Posts: 1163
From: Lewiston, idaho
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-29-2001 09:24 PM
my slicks are spinning on my wheels, anyone know what size drill bit to use and what size screw i should use, ya i know i could buy the kit from summit/ jegs but it would be much cheaper and easier to just get the screws locally. how many should i use? any tips for installing them? carl says they drill there wheels with the slicks mounted. obviously being very carful. thanks in advance
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446acuda
Moparts Member
Posts: 78
From: Charlotte, NC, U.S.A.
Registered: Mar 2001
posted 05-29-2001 09:32 PM
don't know the drill size but the screws should be grade 8,#14 sheet metal screws.
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71ChargerSE440CI
Moparts Member
Posts: 245
From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA, USA
Registered: May 2001
posted 05-30-2001 12:02 AM
Maybe this will help...
http://www.4secondsflat.com/drtirscrew.htm
Let me know if this site answers your questions.
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DGLogan
Moparts Member
Posts: 110
From: Glen Allen, VA USA
Registered: Mar 2001
posted 05-30-2001 12:20 AM
Yes, I've drilled my wheels with the slicks mounted to insure that my expensive race tubes aren't damaged in the event the tires turn on the rim.
As was mentioned, you must use a grade 8 screw. I believe I used Mr. Gasket or MOROSO wheel screws. Can't remember the drill size, but I think the screws came with instructions that specified the drill bit size needed.
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Michael Doty
Moparts Member
Posts: 759
From: Thompson Falls, MT USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-30-2001 12:27 AM
I am fairly sure the Moroso ones come with a 3/16" drill. I use some lubricant like dishsoap so the screw threads don't seize in the aluminum too bad and possibly break off. I probably have a left over screw or so that I could mail you for a sample if you want.
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Runner
Moparts Member
Posts: 1163
From: Lewiston, idaho
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-30-2001 12:30 AM
thanks for the offer mike, but i just need my buddy to pull one out of his slicks for me and ill go buy a bunch, i was going to get stainless bolts is that a bad idea or good idea?
my next dumb question is whats the best way to make sure the bolts are spaced properly on the wheel?
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Michael Doty
Moparts Member
Posts: 759
From: Thompson Falls, MT USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-30-2001 12:44 AM
To me it looks like most people "eyeball" them. If you're handy with trig you can do some math and lay them out, or print out a computer drawing like I did for a pattern. I know I have your address from the pictures you sent me, but to make sure just send it (address) to me Runner and I'll send you a template. It is for 16 screws, but you can skip every other one. If you just save it and give it back at the races this summer that would be fine.
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John Russo
Moparts Member
Posts: 1070
From: Portsmouth, VA, USA
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-30-2001 08:07 AM
I used the MOROSO kit and it said use a 13/64" drill bit. Use Grade 8 screws. I used 8 screws on each side of the rim. If your rims have rivets, like Centerline Auto Drags, you can count the total number and divide by the number of screws you are going to use. Then you can get an approximate spacing of the screws. You can also do some geometry to get a more exact straight distance between screws. I drilled mine with the tires OFF the rims. Used pencil marks to locate the screw locations, and after I was happy with the spacing, I used a center punch, then drilled. I test fitted all the screws in the rim, removed them, then deburred any sharp edges, before installing the tire. I hated to drill on a new pair of Centerlines! John
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Mick
Moparts Member
Posts: 212
From: Dover DE USA
Registered: Feb 2000
posted 05-30-2001 08:14 AM
Runner,
Just went through this drill (no pun intended LOL!!) the bit size is 3/16" and the screws are 1/4" I went with 8 per side, drill them then make sure you take the cuttings off the back side of the rim with sandpaper. A yard stick laid across the rim and then rotated 90 degree angles (Like a clock face) will get you the 8 points, but Michael Doty has a great idea with the template.
Hope this helps, and good luck!!
Mick
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day440tona
Moparts Member
Posts: 63
From: Smyrna --mopar,tn. u.s.a.
Registered: Feb 2001
posted 05-30-2001 08:24 AM
I've used five per side, using the wheel studs hole as reference to space the bolts
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Brian_wo
Moparts Member
Posts: 4691
From: Omaha Nebraska
Registered: Nov 1999
posted 05-30-2001 11:26 AM
I took a square piece of cardboard,did the yard stick trick like stated here untill I had enough points to start drilling for screws,then I took a rim and centered it over the middle where all the lines cross each other and drew around the wheel,then I just cut it out,now I have a round pattern I keep around.
http://www.geocities.com/wo23dodge/
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800-397-8401
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v2charger
Moparts Member
Posts: 292
From: scranton,PA
Registered: Feb 2000
posted 05-30-2001 10:28 PM
those bolts or screws or whatever they are also come in handy when you strip out a hole on the firewall. then you can tell all the chicks that you "had to buy grade 8 bolts for your voltage regulator." only faster way to the back seat is a jade elephant on the dash borad.
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Unlawfl
Moderator
Posts: 1999
From: bloomfield hills, mi, usa
Registered: Jan 2000
posted 05-30-2001 10:37 PM
And don't worry about spacing them out perfectly. Get them as close as possible with the yardstick method as mentioned and then take them to be balanced. I used 8 screws on the inside and 8 on the outside. I'll bet 4 and 4 would do it and save you a little weight from the rotating mass. Slicks with tubes are very heavy...
The Unlawfl One
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