A-BODY DISC BRAKE CONVERSION
These instructions are for all A-Body Disc Brake Conversion, from 1962-1976
NOTE: PLEASE DO NOT USE ANY OTHER BODY STYLE CALIPERS: ROTORS: PROPORATING VALVE: OR BEARINGS, OTHER THAN A-BODY FACTORY PARTS
***** MUST READ !!!!!!!! DO NOT USE VALORE' OR ASPEN DISC BRAKE PARTS, THIS WILL CAUSE YOUR CAR TO HAVE WHAT IS CALLED "BUMP STEER"
1. Upper Control Arms, from 1973-1975 A-Body, Dart, Duster, Valiant. from Disc Brake Donor Car. ( single Piston Caliper only )
2. Front Spindels from Disc Brake Donor Car, ( Single Piston Caliper ) ** Mark their location, with left front and right front.
3. Rotors from the Donor Car
4. Proportioning Valve From Donor Car. You must use the unit, from the Donor Car. You can also use a adjustable Porportioning aftermarket valve, from Mopar Performance, Manicini Racing, or Summit Racing.
5. New Front Brake Hoses ( Rubber ) For the Disc Brake Caliper(s) Order the set for the year of the Donor Car, disc/drum They are a direct replacement
6. New Brake Pads & Bearing ( you must know, what make, model and Year, the donor car )
7. New Master Cylinder, Disc / drum, must use 73-75 A-Body, with or without/ power brakes
8. 4.5" bolt pattern front Wheels.
9. New Cam Kit, and Upper Control Bushings
10. 73-75 Lower Ball Joints
11. From the donor car, remove the ( 2 ) lines that are attached to the master cylinder, and use them on your car.
12. Sway Bars, this will not interfere with either the factory or aftermarket SWAY BARS, just weld on the tabs, for the Donor Car, or the brackets, that came with the aftermarket kit.
13. It is NOT adviseable to switch the Caliper from front to rear, the Chrysler engineers, found it best to place the caliper in the rear of the the spindel, to aid in heat transfer, and this also helps keep the road grime from entering the piston.
1. Remove tension on Torsion Bars, and move the back about 12" towards the rear of the car.
2. Replace ONLY the Upper Control Arms.
3. Replace Front Spindels with donor set, onto your Car, being careful, not to mix up the left and right sides, You should have already marked with with a "L & R", see above.
4. Install Proportion Valve, in Line
5. Replace Lower Ball Joint, with 73-75 A-Body, ( Larger size )
6. Install Rotors, Calipers and Pads, and Grease Seal behind the rotors & bearings, and put grease on the spindel
7. Repace Front Taper Bearings, install cotter pin.
8. Install Newer ( 73-75 ) Lower Ball Joint and Grease entire front end.
9. Tighten Torsion Bar Adjuster
10. Install Master Cylinder, You will need a New Push-Rod Rubber Bushing, that holds the Brake Pedal Push Rod into the Rear of the Master Cylinder Mopar Part # 2074960
11. That's it. It should take you about 4-5 hours
12. Have the front end Aligned
13. You will need to change your REAR AXLE BOLT PATTERN AXLES, from 4" to 4.5". If you have a A-Body ONLY 8.75 Rear Axle, THE REAR END MEASURES 51" BACKING PLATE TO BACKING PLATE", Don't be fulled, by using a B-BODY 8.75 REAR END, as it will not line up with your car. Then you can order a set of Axles from Moser Axles, they will simply bolt in with no Mods. Do your self a favor, order the "Green Bearings from Moser, this will take the place of the Passenger side ADJUSTER.
***** Note: Please take the time to read, and understand, what I have outlined, for this project, and Please follow the instructions, this will make your job alot easier, safe, and complete. While we are on the subject of the Braking system, Please inspect the Rear Brakes, and Hardware, Hoses and Brake Lines, and don't forget the rubber brake line, hat attaches to the rear end housing, and wheel cylinders. This is the best time, to completely beed the entire brake system, until all the rust, and dirt, isn't present in the brake fluid.
I am a MOPAR ENGINE BUILDER.
Thanks: Mopar Charlie I can be reached @ 727-271-5068 after 7 PM evenings please E-Mail moparcharlie9@aol.com
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